The Historic cities of Harar and Dire Dawa

The ancient walled city, of Harar has more than 90 mosques and shrines mixed in with households behind its sixteenth century walls. This city was founded over 1,000 years ago, and is considered one of the holiest centers in the Islamic world. Form this base the strong emir of Harar in the 1500s, Ahmed Gragn, rebelled against the domination of the highland Christian empire of Ethiopia to the west. Gragn was finally defeated near Lake Tana with the assistance of Portuguese force under De Gama. A defensive wall was constructed around the city with gates to protect it from other possible threats.

Harar was conquered again and fall under Egyptian rule and then by the Christian highlanders under Menelik the second and fall under the governor ship of Ras mekonen. Ras Tafari (Emperor Haile Silasse, the last Solomonic line of rulers) the son of Ras Mekonen was born in Harar.

Harar today, with its atmosphere of history and of past glory amidst the ebb and flow of conquering armies, is thus a fascinating stopping place for the traveler.

Harar’s ethnically diverse population is made up of Hararis, the indigenous highland Ethiopian people of the region, Argoba, Oromo, Amhara and Somali speakers from the plains. This cultural diversity is best seen expressed in the old market at the centre of the city where tall, graceful maidens in long, glowing, extravagantly colored dressed come to barter and buy amongst the elegant Moorish archways- a scene that has changed little since the eccentric French poet, Rimbaud, lived in Harar in the 19th century.

Famous for its intricately worked filigree jeweler of silver, gold and amber, Harar’s Me gala Gudo market is also the place to buy beautiful baskets woven with brightly colored grass, decorative wall mats and bright shawls as well as the fruits, vegetables, spices and grains of the province.

Harar’s Islamic character is best expressed by the grand Mosque which dominates the town, the cool spacious interior, dimly illuminated by shafts of sunlight entering through open windows, and is filled with the whisper of prayer and click of rosary beads.

A popular attraction for visitors is Hyena Man who, as evening falls, sets himself up at the outskirts of the city. He makes his living by laying on a remarkable show, feeding meat, offal and bones to packs or wild hyenas that come down from the surrounding hills, apparently answering to names which the Hyena man chants hypnotically.

An interesting excursion from Harar takes the traveler on a gravel road that runs eastwards towards the Somali border.

. Midway between Harar and Jijiga, near the town of Babile (a site of hot springs) a deep valley is entered, known locally as the ‘the Valley of Marvel’. These are area of unusual volcanic formations of tall columns of black rock, weathered and twisted, stands topped by loose precariously balanced boulders.

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